Phnom Phen, Cambodia
Updated 29/12/2004:
The quake death toll has now exceeded 68,000 and is likely to rise even further with tens of thousands still missing and some regions yet to be contacted. The figure could now rise as high as 90,000 fatalities. The WHO warn that water borne diseases from a lack of clean water could double this amount; diseases such as cholera, dysentry, diahorrea and malaria will take their toll, such water borne destruction which providing ideal breeding grounds for mosquitos.
Many of the dead are the old and the young, parents unable to cling onto their children and watched them swept away. People are being buried in mass graves througout the region as the fear of disease from rotting corpses necessitates prompt action.
In Thailand the death toll now exceeds 1500, feared to rise top 2000, many of them Western tourists lodging in beach front property deliberately constructed close to the sea. The astoundingly beautiful shorelines are now lined with corpses that arrive every hour, swept back from the sea that claimed them just a few days earlier. Islands such as Phi Phi and Ko Lak were particularly badly hit.
In Indonesia, I fear for Bukit Lawang and the orang-utang sanctuary there, its location in North Sumatra close to the epicentre of the quake. Bukit Lawang was devastated by mud-slides and floods just over a year ago when it was practically wiped out with over 300 people losing their lives. I knew people that worked at the sanctuary there, and fear for their lives and the family with whom I stayed. News from Penang is more comforting, for some reason it hasn't appeared to have suffered too badly, the people I know there appear to be safe. I have no way at present of finding out about my friends in Phuket, Thailand, I can only hope that they are safe.
Around the world many countries have mobilised their relief systems, dozens of planes are in the air as I speak, the US has two aircraft carriers steaming towards the region all trying to get precious aid to the victims of this disaster. The UN is coordinating the effort and one can only pray that they reach the devastated areas in time.
At times like these there are always the oddest of images that stick in ones mind, and the image of a mosque in a coastal village in Sumatra, will stay forever. The mosque was the only village that survived the earthquake. On the front of the mosque is a clock. The clock shows the time of 8.27. This was the time when the earthquake struck, and the clock stopped, forever marking the moment.
Updated 28/12/2004:
Revised figures from Indonesia suggest that between 21 and 25 thousand people have perished, putting the total number of fatalities at somewhere around the 40,000 mark. Up to 40,000 people are unnacounted for in the Andoman and Nicobar islands, close to the epicentre of the earthquake that struck (see map below for detail).

With and additional minimum of 1,000 people missing in Thailand, believed to be dead, final estimates of the fatalities could reach as many as 60,000 people.
27/12/2004:
It's with heavy heart that I have learned of the devastating earthquake and subsequent tsunami that has wrought havoc and killed over 12,000 people so far, with the final death toll likely to be far higher. I am concerned and worried, because many of the areas that have been hit are places that I have travelled through recently, and for the many friends that I have made that live there. Further, those that I have said goodbye to heading for just such places that were in the path of the wall of water that resulted from the quakes that measured 9.0 on the Richter scale.
As the roll call rings I shudder - Medan, Bukit Lawang and lake Toba in Indonesia. Penang in Malaysia where I attended a friend's wedding, and I am deeply concerned for the brides family there. Phuket in Thailand where my Laos ex-girlfriend is working, Alexei, the truculent Greek who was there last time I heard from him. And the islands where so many people head at this time of the year. I too, so easily could have been there.
Here in Phnom Penh, we were perfectly safe, but Thailand and Malysia where their fingers touch shield the Gulf of Thailand from the Andaman sea which bore down on the Western Islands and Phuket in Thailand, and Penang and elsewhere in Malaysia. Otherwise, Cambodia too would have felt the brunt of this primal, elemental force. In other directions the destructive tsunami went to the north of India and Burma, and as far as West Africa. An accident of geography kept further devastation from the SE of Thailand, Cambodia and South Vietnam, this could have been so much worse.

For those unfamiliar with the region, Cambodia is just adjacent to Thailand, and next to Thailnd is Vietnam. The Gulf of Thailand touches all three countries, and the death toll could have been much higher. The quake was even felt in Bangkok and Chiang-Mai, in the north of Thailand, I am suprised that I didn't feel it here in Phnom Penh, as the crow flies we are not that distant from Bangkok.
Those who may be concerned for my safety, need not worry, I am luckily out of harms way, just. At this time there are others to worry about, and I am personally deeply concerned over what the coming days may reveal about their fate. And at a time like this of course, to pray for the families of those that have lost their loved ones and livelihoods.
yechydda,